Like a Dream, a Glimpse of Zhenjiang: Revisiting Youthful Memories in Wind and Rain
Meta Description: Rediscover Zhenjiang travel memories through a nostalgic journey to Xijin Ferry, local cuisine like braised shredded tofu skin, and hidden gems in this ancient Jiangsu city. Perfect for a weekend getaway.
Introduction: A Typhoon Brings Me Back to Zhenjiang
Some cities are destined to reunite with you at a specific moment. Such is Zhenjiang—this small city in Jiangsu Province where I spent four years of college. In my memory, it has always carried a damp, lush green, like the moss soaked by rain—quiet, unpretentious, yet holding an unforgettable warmth.
In August, a friend's wedding in Nanjing became the catalyst for this unexpected Zhenjiang travel reunion. The three of us drove south, originally planning to head straight to Jinling (Nanjing). But just before departure, a whim struck us: why not take a detour and stay a night in Zhenjiang first? This spontaneous decision led to an emotional rediscovery of youthful memories.
On the afternoon of our departure, a strong typhoon swept in with torrential rain. What should have been a four-hour drive stretched painfully into over eight hours. When the navigation finally showed "Xijin Ferry (西津渡)," it was already ten at night.
Night Rain at Xijin Ferry: A Bowl of Braised Shredded Tofu Skin
After dropping our bags at the Little Mountain Youth Hostel (小山楼青年旅舍), the rain showed no sign of letting up. The three of us huddled under a broken umbrella, starving, searching for lights in the darkness. Most shops on the old street had already closed, except for one called "Old Wharf (老码头)," which still glowed with dim yellow light.
Strangely enough, the dish I usually overlooked the most—大煮干丝 (braised shredded tofu skin with ham and shrimp)—was devoured by the three of us that night. Crispy, glossy sweet-and-sour spare ribs, a refreshing braised three-delicacy combo. Outside, the storm raged; inside, steam rose from the warmth of the meal.
At that moment, Zhenjiang food memories came flooding back: the pot-lid noodles (锅盖面) I ate in the college cafeteria, the late nights spent cramming in the library, the evenings chatting with roommates while walking on the sports field.
The owner of Old Wharf recognized me: "Oh, it's you! Long time no see." Those words almost made my eyes well up. Yes, it had been so long that I had almost forgotten how this city once carried four years of my youth.
Where to Eat at Xijin Ferry
| Dish | Restaurant | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Braised shredded tofu skin | Old Wharf (老码头) | Signature dish |
| Sweet-and-sour spare ribs | Old Wharf | Crispy and glossy |
| Braised three-delicacy combo | Old Wharf | Refreshing flavor |
Morning at Xijin Ferry: An Authentic Ancient Street Without Commercial Hype
The next day, I woke up unusually early. Pushing open the wooden door of the youth hostel, the morning Xijin Ferry looked like a watercolor painting just washed by rain. The stone pavement still held last night's puddles. The entire street was so quiet that only birdsong and distant morning exercise sounds could be heard.
Unlike other ancient commercial streets in China, Xijin Ferry hasn't been overly commercialized. There are no cookie-cutter "Jiangnan specialty shops," no vendors hawking snacks. Only a handful of small businesses remain, keeping their most authentic appearance.
In the early morning, locals still came to the Guanyin Cave (观音洞) to pray devoutly. A pet cat strolled calmly across the stone pavement, as if inspecting its territory, ignoring passersby entirely.
Looking up, the lush peak of Suan Mountain (蒜山) loomed overhead. In April, the purple-flowered paulownia trees would rustle and dance in the wind, their fragrant, fuzzy petals falling onto the stones. This place didn't feel like a tourist attraction; it felt like a corner forgotten by time.
Best time to visit Xijin Ferry: Early morning (7:00–9:00 AM) for the most authentic atmosphere and fewer crowds.
A Taste Memory from Zhenjiang Old Town: A Turnip Shred Pancake for Fifty Cents
Descending the steps from Xijin Ferry, I entered Zhenjiang's old town. Following the familiar scent, I somehow found the pancake stall I used to visit years ago. The vendor was still the same man in a white apron, listening to Guo Degang's crosstalk while lazily handing me a 萝卜丝烧饼 (turnip shred pancake). Fifty cents. Cash only.
With the first bite, the crisp, soft texture instantly washed away last night's exhaustion. The savory, salty flavor melted on my tongue, reminding me of those mornings rushing to early classes, always grabbing a pancake for breakfast.
Electric scooters and cars wove through the morning sunlight on the old street. The plane trees above blocked out the sky, and the No. 2 bus sounded like it was coughing—everything was just as it used to be, as if I had never left.
Other Attractions Near Xijin Ferry
- Boxian Park (伯先公园) – Built in memory of Zhao Boxian, a martyr of the Huanghuagang Uprising. When the locust trees bloom in May, petals fall like stars.
- Zhenjiang Museum – Located on the other side of the old street, among layered hills.
- Orange Hotel (桔子酒店) – A modern hotel that blends seamlessly with ancient architecture.
A Glimpse of My Alma Mater: Regret as an Excuse for the Next Reunion
After leaving Xijin Ferry, I returned to my alma mater. Because of summer break, most shops on the back street were closed. The pot-lid noodles I had been craving—I didn't even have time to queue for them. That place always had a long line; every visit meant a half-hour wait.
It started drizzling again. Rolling down the car window, the river breeze blew in, carrying a familiar scent. Every ray of sunlight felt like a blessing on past and future.
Zhenjiang is small, peaceful. The flower-and-bird market at the foot of South Mountain, the alleys hidden behind the bustling traffic of Dashikou (大市口), the grapes ripening on the old Mengxi (梦溪) building, the constant aroma of vinegar in the air—even the internet café where I skipped class as a freshman to play games. Today, these may seem ordinary, but they are filled with the thick fragrance of everyday life.
[Link: Best things to do in Zhenjiang for first-time visitors]
Epilogue: Leave a Little Longing for the Next Reunion
Zhenjiang has never tried to please you. It's like a silent old friend—no matter how long you've been away, it's always there, welcoming you back with the same warmth, the same flavors. This fleeting glimpse allowed me to rediscover this small city. It hasn't changed. I have.
Those memories worn down by time came alive again in the wind and rain. A bowl of braised shredded tofu skin, a turnip shred pancake, the cough of a bus engine, the scent of vinegar carried by the river breeze—these seemingly insignificant details pieced together my entire attachment to Zhenjiang.
Leave a little regret and longing for the next encounter. Maybe in an April when the purple paulownias bloom, or a May when the locust blossoms perfume the air. No matter when, I know Zhenjiang will always be there, with its damp, lush green, waiting for me to return.
Frequently Asked Questions About Zhenjiang Travel
1. What is the best time to visit Zhenjiang?
The best seasons are April for purple paulownia blossoms, May for locust flowers, and autumn for crab roe soup dumplings. Spring and fall offer mild weather perfect for exploring Xijin Ferry and the old town.
2. How many days do you need in Zhenjiang?
At least one full day is recommended. This allows time for Xijin Ferry, the old town, Boxian Park, and sampling local cuisine like pot-lid noodles and braised shredded tofu skin.
3. What are the must-eat foods in Zhenjiang?
- Pot-lid noodles (锅盖面) – A Zhenjiang specialty
- Braised shredded tofu skin (大煮干丝) – Available at Old Wharf
- Turnip shred pancake (萝卜丝烧饼) – Cash only, 50 cents
- Crab roe soup dumplings – Best in autumn
4. How do I get to Xijin Ferry from Zhenjiang Station?
Xijin Ferry is within walking distance from Zhenjiang Station. Alternatively, you can take a taxi or local bus. Self-driving is also convenient.
5. Is Xijin Ferry commercialized like other ancient streets?
No. Xijin Ferry has avoided over-commercialization. It retains authentic local shops, quiet alleys, and a peaceful atmosphere—perfect for travelers seeking genuine cultural experiences.
[Link: Top 10 ancient towns in Jiangsu Province]
Practical Travel Tips for Zhenjiang
| Category | Details |
|---|---|
| Accommodation | Little Mountain Youth Hostel at Xijin Ferry – convenient location, ancient atmosphere |
| Must-Eat Foods | Old Wharf's braised shredded tofu skin, sweet-and-sour spare ribs, turnip shred pancake (cash only) |
| Best Seasons | April (paulownia), May (locust flowers), autumn (crab roe dumplings) |
| Transportation | Self-drive or high-speed rail to Zhenjiang Station; Xijin Ferry is walkable |
| Time Needed | At least one full day for old town exploration |
Ready to Rediscover Zhenjiang?
Whether you're a first-time visitor or returning after years away, Zhenjiang offers a unique blend of history, culture, and authentic local life. From the serene morning at Xijin Ferry to the comforting taste of a turnip shred pancake, every moment in this small city feels like stepping into a dream.
Plan your Zhenjiang trip today. Book your accommodation at the Little Mountain Youth Hostel, save your appetite for Old Wharf's braised shredded tofu skin, and leave room for spontaneous detours—because sometimes, the best memories come from unplanned moments.
[Link: Book Zhenjiang tours and activities]
Have you visited Zhenjiang? Share your memories in the comments below!
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